Here is some useful information to help you navigate this city of 22 Million people (Zona Metropolitana).
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It's up to you depending on what your plans are. Driving in CDMX is definitely an experience and not for everyone. Lots of traffic and very defensive driving, Anahí calls it "shitty driving" but as I point out to her, there's a lot less traffic accidents here.
About renting a car in Mexico, it is doable, however, rental sites like Priceline will offer an International insurance like Zurich or Allianz. Don't bother, our experience has been that when you pick up the car they will not accept this insurance and instead they'll require a hefty deposit/open charge on your credit card (despite what the US insurance company tells you).
Public transportation is very good in CDMX, there's the subway aka "EL Metro", metrobus, buses, eco-bici, etc. You will need a metro card to use these, you can find more details here.
El Metro is very quick, however, it can be very crowded in the mornings and evenings as people go to/from work. Try to avoid rush hour as it will be Tokyo-like with the amount of people using this mode of transportation.
Normally we'd use public transportation in other cities, however, Uber is so inexpensive and convenient in CDMX that we tend to use that instead.
Here's more information on this topic:
Getting Around CDMX in Public Transportation
There are two forms of ride share services in CDMX, Uber and Didi - the Chinese Uber. Uber is very convenient and less expensive than in the US. This is our preferred mode of transportation. We have never used Didi but I know many locals prefer it.
Avoid Taxis as a tourist as they can overcharge and there's a series of issues with Taxis at the moment.
If you need a private shuttle reach out to me as I can provide a couple of contacts.
Airbnb or hotels in the following Colonias (neighborhoods) based on amenities and points of interest:
Of course there are other very nice areas such as Coyoacan, San Angel, Centro Historico.
During the summer months, Mexico City experiences a rainy season with mostly warm temperatures, characterized by frequent afternoon showers that can be heavy at times, but often with sunshine throughout the day; expect high humidity and the possibility of thunderstorms, making it the wettest month of the year, while still seeing a good amount of daylight hours.
Rain: afternoon showers, sometimes with thunderstorms, are typical.
Temperature: Warm days with average highs in the mid-70s Fahrenheit.
Humidity: High levels of humidity
Sunshine: While rain is common, most days still see sunshine.
A typical day will start with sunshine, at some point usually in the early evening there will be a heavy downpour that will last an hour if that. The entire time before this and after there will be no rain. We recommend you bring a packable rain jacket just in case, and expect the white sneakers to maybe get a little dirty. You DO NOT need a heavy jacket, a light sweater or hoodie is enough and even with the hour of rain you can wear shorts (aside from the fact that this will 100% show that you are a tourist, CDMX does not wear shorts).
Fun Fact: Every time we've been to CDMX in July we all bring rain jackets. I don't recall ever using them.
Some of these are unique to CDMX, others are common sense in any country you visit.
The Metropolitan Zone of CDMX has over 20 million people and like any big city you should follow similar guidelines of places like New York, Paris, London. CDMX is generally safe but like these other cities you have to be aware of your surroundings and not make it easy on pick pockets and petty thieves.
Make an effort to speak Spanish.
Do NOT say "I'm American" or "America" to refer to the U.S.A. Why? Mexicans, Argentinians and everyone else from Alaska to the Patagonia are American. America is a continent NOT a country.
CDMX is very polite and can be very proper at times.
Greeting people is a must! Everyone will expect that you say "Buenos Dias" or "Buenas Tardes/Noches" when walking into a room. Acknowledge every one. Every single time.
It is customary to greet people with a handshake or a kiss on the cheek, especially among close acquaintances. Don't freak out if people you meet reach out for a kiss in the cheek. Since Covid and with the newer generations this is luckily dying down.
It is also expected to say good bye "Hasta luego" when you leave. In both the greeting and the good-bye, it is recommended to acknowledge everyone, if it is a small group extend your hand and introduce yourself to each person, if it is a larger group then simply ACK them all and say your greeting.
"Por favor" "Gracias" "Con Permiso" "Disculpe" are basic when interacting with Chilangos (CDMX folk) --should be world wide but that's another story.
"Provecho" if eating with a Mexican at the table or at a table near you. You may hear them say "Provecho" or "Buen Provecho" (bon apetit). Feel free to say this as it will be appreciated but not expected.
Don't be late. Some people may have gotten the idea that it’s okay to be late in Mexico. Not true, it is rude in Mexico and everywhere else.
CDMX sits at an altitude of 7,350 ft, other parts of the city even higher. It may take a few days to aclimate. Stay hydrated (with bottled water).
Restaurants:
Tipping - Tipping is common and expected. The usual tip percentage is between 10% - 15%. 20% if you feel the service is great (and it will be).
A waiter will NEVER bring the check to your table as it is considered rude. You have to ask for the check.
If paying with a credit card, make sure you ask for the terminal when you ask for the check or after they bring the check. "Pudiera traer la terminal por favor"
Don't overindulge, food will be amazing. "Tómalo take it easy" and if you do happen to get the so called revenge, remember that it's Moctezuma NOT Montezuma.
Do order cheese in your Quesadilla. A quesadilla in CDMX does not necessarily have cheese. Do NOT debate this Anahí!!!
Chips and salsa at your table is not a thing in CDMX. Also, they are called totopos.
Bread is most common at restaurants. Tortillas at taquerias.
You do you but Tequila and Mezcal is sipped by locals. Never shots.
Don't use Taxis. Use Uber or public transportation.
Carry cash but not too much cash. Coins and small denomination bills. You will need it for public restrooms, small tips for the person who packs your things at the supermarket, if you rent a car you will need to tip the gas station clerk, parking at supermarkets, restaurants, on the street to the guy who illegally guards the spots, the blind person with the amazing voice singing on the street, etc.
Public Restrooms.
You have to pay for many public restrooms and with this you will receive a few squares of toilet paper.
If possible carry some toilet paper or wipes or learn how to clean with 3 squares.
Toilets at these public restrooms usually don't have a toilet seat so learn the "aguilita" stance. Practice your squats.
Bougie places, such as restaurants or nicer department stores will have restrooms as we know them here, with a seat and at no charge, other than the tip for the cleaning person handing you paper towels in the bathroom.
Don't drink tap water, be careful with ice. Drink bottled water. This remains true.
Single use plastics are banned in CDMX so supermarkets do not hand out bags. Bring your own bag.
Most parking places have a charge, for example going to the supermarket or Costco you have to pay for parking and then you have to tip the guy guarding the lot or helping you pull out of your spot (this person is called a "viene viene"). That said, parking is inexpensive.
There's a Costco so do bring your card in case you need a slice of pizza or a Kirkland product.
Don't drink in public. This is not a gringo party town. It is illegal and you will be taken to jail, there's a chance you can get out of it with a bribe but why do that? We don't want to perpetuate corruption in CDMX. This is not true if you dring and drive, read on.
DO NOT DRINK AND DRIVE!!! while this applies everywhere, it is especially true in CDMX. There are ongoing checkpoints, especially on the weekends. If you get caught you will be thrown into the drunk tank aka "El Torito" and not be able to leave until Monday morning (if caught Fri,Sat,Sun). Unlike the previous one, no bribe will get you out of this.
Don't haggle with artisans. Respect and value their work and realize that whatever item you are trying to low ball is still probably very inexpensive when converting to Dollars.
Museums are closed on Mondays.
All "puestos ambulantes" or "street vendors" are prohibited to be out on Tuesdays. This affects certain bazaars, outdoor mercados, food stands, etc.
Locals do not wear shorts. Wearing shorts is OK though, you will simply stand out as a tourist. Especially men.
Avoid Flip-flops and sandals. This is not Cancún plus your feet will be filthy and most likely wet.
Traffic is crazy, what seems to be a couple of miles away may take you an hour or more so plan accordingly.
Here are some simplified maps of the main neighborhoods and areas of interest for your reference. This first map makes things look real close, they're not so use this only as a reference.
Top recommendation What can I say, it's the site of the Aztec empire. This is a must-visit for first time visitors of CDMX. If you have to chose one thing this is it.
In addition to this, this is one of the options for a tour: https://www.turibus.com.mx/en/cdmx/turitour/turitour-teotihuacan-pyramids
This is a good way to get a feel for the city. The routes I recommend on Turibus which is the one I am familiar with are the Centro Historico and Polanco routes. There are 2 companies, Turibus and Capital Bus. Turibus is like any other double-decker tourist bus in other major cities, just less expensive. Take into consideration that it rains in the summer so you may have to ride inside the bus at times and for the longer routes, Sur or Coyoacan for example you may be stuck in traffic for quite a while.
Turibus: check the Turibus circuits, scroll to the bottom of the webpage, switch the city to Ciudad de Mexico to see the 4 routes that exist:
Circuito Basilica
Circuito Centro Historico (Recommended)
Circuito Polanco (Recommended)
Circuito Sur
Capital Bus: This one is newer and only has 3 routes. We have not used this one so we have no opinion other than the Centro Sur route takes you to UNAM-Ciudad Universitaria.
Centro Polanco
Templos
Centro Sur
Centro Histórico: this is the historical center of CDMX. You can spend at least one full day in this area. I recommend you start your day by reaching "La Alameda Central" park or "Hemiciclo a Juarez" which is within the park and then walk east. I will list some of the key points of interest in order of appearance as you walk towards Zócalo as well as watering holes and restaurants. Research these on your own and decide which to skip, however, those I think are a must will be noted.
If you drove you can park under the Palacio de Bellas Artes, this is similar to the parking lot under Union Square in SF, much cheaper.
Here is a list of attractions from the Interwebs https://www.lonelyplanet.com/mexico/mexico-city/centro-historico/attractions which shows the amount of museums you can find here. I will point out some:
If you want to start your day with breakfast in this area, we recommend El Cardenal, the location which is inside the Hilton Reforma Mexico City. There are others, all are great.
Museo Mural Diego Rivera: (optional) To the west of Alameda Central, often overlooked. What to see here, Diego Rivera's work.
Alameda Central and Hemiciclo a Juarez: (optional) you can stroll through the park and may be able to see the Juarez monument if it is not covered and protected due to demonstrations. While there's a whole historical background to this park and this being a park where the high social classes of CDMX used to hang, in the last decades it is better know as the park where "the help" come on Sundays "a echar novio" on their day off.
Museo Memoria y Tolerancia: (optional) I will leave it up to you after you lookup and read reviews. All I can say is this may be a downer for some people, as it touches on atrocities humans have done. I would say a must but maybe for a second visit to CDMX.
China Town: (optional but very quick) Walk along Avenida Juarez and turn right on Dolores street, 2 blocks from the Hilton. Very small china town that extends only a couple of blocks.
Point of Historical interest: the oldest bar in CDMX, Cantina Tio Pepe, frequented by Politicians and personalities like William S. Burroughs. It has a stained glass sign that reads Henessy Cognac, one of two in existence.
Palacio de Bellas Artes: A Must Head back to Avenida Juarez and walk to Palacio de Bellas Artes, pay the entrance fee and enjoy the murals of el panzón Diego Rivera, David Alfaro Siqueiros, Rufino Tamayo. Murals you have probably seen in the US in Chicano culture books, magazines, calendars from panaderias, etc. These are the real deal.
Palacio Postal: (optional but very quick) Cross the Eje Central from Palacio Nacional and walk towards Calle de Tacuba. The museum is a working post office or should I say a working post palace.
Torre Latino Americana: A Must Walk back along Eje Central to "La Torre Latino Americana" and go to the top floor for an awesome view of the entire city. You can buy the tickets in the bottom floor.
Casa de los Azulejos: (Optional but very quick) kitty corner from Torre Latino you will find a blue tiled building. This is currently a Sanborn's restaurant but I recommend you walk in and take a look past the store, go to the main stairway where there is a mural from Jose Clemente Orozco, then visit the central patio or dinning area. You could also take a break and have a drink and/or a snack here.
Madero Street: A Must Stroll along Avenida Francisco I. Madero eastbound towards Zócalo. As you walk on this street there will be other museums but I recommend you visit those on a second day or visit (Palacio de la Cultura, Museo del Estanquillo). Things you will find along the way, organilleros which is a dying tradition, the statue of Pancho Villa in the corner of Madero and Isabel La Católica.
If you are looking to purchase Gold for less than in the USA, this is the place. We recommend Centro Joyero 59, Madero 54 and 55.
Zócalo, A Must the main square of CDMX, this is where kilometer zero is located (the mile marker from which traveled distances to the rest of the country are measured). It is surrounded by Palacio Nacional on one side, Catedral and Templo Mayor ruins on another and several hotels with nice terraces directly across from Palacion Nacional.
Catedral Metropolitana: A Must First cathedral built in the Americas. Notice that on the grounds in front of the catedral there will be mirrored floors, if you peek you will see Aztec ruins. This is because Spaniards imposed their religion and built churches over Aztec temples as a way to demonstrate thier power.
Templo Mayor: A Must ruins discovered under the Spanish churches while digging during construction of "El Metro" in 1978. Within it you can find, among other things, a huge stone disc depicting the goddess of war named Coyolxāuhqui. Info here: https://www.templomayor.inah.gob.mx/el-museo-y-sus-servicios/visitas-guiadas
Palacio Nacional: (Optional but very interesting) the National Palace where the previous and current president Claudi Sheinbaum decided to live, breaking tradition of staying in Los Pinos (the Mexican White House) located near Polanco. Tours are available, however, this requires that you register in person next door at the "Museo de Arte de la Secretaría de Hacienda y Crédito Público" at Calle de Moneda 4, Centro Histórico de la CDMX. You can register starting at 10:00 am, from Tuesday to Sunday. Remember Mondays museums are closed.
Gran Hotel de la Ciudad de Mexico, walk in and look up. You won't be disappointed. Hungry or parched yet? This is one of 3 places to have a snack and/or drink.
Rooftop/Terraces at Zócalo: At some point when you get to Zócalo and depending on how many hours you've been walking around, you may want a snack or a drinkypoo. Along with this the views from some of these rooftops are awesome, if you are there around 6 pm you can see the daily removal of the huge flag in the center of Zócalo.
There are multiple rooftops facing Zócalo, however, many of them will scam you by adding charges, a hidden cover or some sneaky extra charge. We've done the research for you and these are the three safe ones, all 3 are within hotels. One on the south corner of Zócalo, one on the north corner and one in the middle.
Balcón del Zócalo: Price: $$$$ / View 5/5. The nicest of the 3 terraces. Very upscale. The view is worth visiting, however, unless you're money bags maybe stick to drinks only. I paid $45.00 USD for a single tostada (I didn't check the price). Make sure you check the prices of the drinks and food before you order.
Terraza del Gran Hotel de Mexico: Price: $$ / View: 4/5. Of the 3 terraces, this one is nice and reasonably priced for Americans, a little on the higher side for locals. Food is good, they have blended margaritas that are well served.
Terraza del Hotel Majestic: Price: $ View: 3/5. A very old school Mexican style, almost stereo-typical. The view is OK, the drinks are inexpensive. We did not try the food but there's definitely better places to eat.
Deparment Stores: in case you need a bathroom or buy a rain jacket or Mexican Candy, there are 2 department stores nearby. El Palacio de Hierro (Nordstrom equivalent) and Liverpool (Macy's equivalent) are just a block away from Zócalo on Calle de Venustiano Carranza.
Casino Español $$ Old Spanish casino, usually has free exhibits. The restaurant is in the top floor. Really good Spanish cuisine.
Los Cocuyos $ some of the best tacos you'll ever have. Stop by and maybe have one or two just to taste them. Michelin Bib Gourmand recommendation.
Taqueria Arandas: $ another good option for a street taco.
Tacos de Canasta Los Especiales: $ A very different kind of taco.
Cafe de Tacuba $$ 110 year-old restaurant in the City Center. It’s arguably Mexico City’s most famous historic restaurant.
El Cardenal Several locations, however, the Palma one is near Zócalo. Good place fro breakfast, brunch or lunch.
Cantinas: we've only been to a couple (La Peninsular and La Opera) https://www.clau.com/elliving/cantinasl-centro-historico . These are good spot for a quick drink with a snack.
Other recommendations: https://www.atlasobscura.com/itineraries/what-to-eat-in-mexico-city-centro-historico
Mercado de San Juan Pugibet (there's 3 mercados San Juan so look for the mercado gourmet, Pugibet). It's a market that has exotic meats, gourmet food, baguettes, cheeses, wine.
Someone already wrote a great guide, so here it is:https://lifeontheroam.com/things-to-do-chapultepec-park-mexico-city/
Personal Recommendations:
Anthropology Museum: A Must a visit would normally take several hours if you are planning on seeing the entire museum. While it is recommended you may not have the time or patience to complete it in a single day so the 2 recommended things to see here happen to be in the same wing of the museum. The first is THE real Aztec Calendar or Piedra del Sol along with the Penacho de Moctezuma (replica because Austria refuses to give it back).
Museo Tamayo and Museo de Arte Moderno: modern art museums. Tamayo is a small museum so it will not take long, they have rotating exhibits along with the works of famed artist Rufino Tamayo. The Mexican MoMa is precisely that, modern art.
Zoo: A Must it's free and it's awesome. They have the only Pandas in the world that are NOT owned by the Chinese government. Real Chilango Pandas. So, like the museo de Antropología if you want speed things up, you can go straight to the Pandas.
Castillo de Chapultepec: A Must the former military college where the child soldiers (Niños Heroes) died defending the castle, and the nation during the Mexican-US War. They are honored here and at the Niños Héroes monument in the park, with a Metro station and at numerous other places throughout the city and country.
Across the way from Chapultepec near the Castillo there is a well known and recommended cantina (kid friendly) that has awesome food, El Mirador.
A Must A wealthy residential neighborhood northwest of downtown Mexico City, Polanco was originally built up in the 1930s for the era's ornate, single-family homes. Today, the colonia is perhaps best known for its art galleries, luxury shopping malls, and high-end dining—it's home to some of Latin America’s best restaurants and a number of cutting-edge cocktail bars. It also, enviably, boasts the sprawling Chapultepec Park as its southern perimeter.
You can lookup videos and recommendations of what to do in Polanco but the main things to do here are people watch, eat, drink and shop a the many luxury brands boutiques and opulent shopping centers. This is where you'll find the rollies, APs and Ferraris along with the Louis V, Prada, Gucci, Chanel, Dior, Cartier, etc.
The shopping centers are:
Palacio de Hierro Polanco: while this is a Nordstrom like store, this locations has multiple other high-end boutiques within it. Also the restaurant upstairs are not bad at all.
Liverpool: more modest department store, a-la-Macy's.
City Market: think whole foods but not for tree huggers, more of a gourmet place. You can have a snack here in the food section.
Along with the hi-life noted above, there are a few museums I highly recommend:
Soumaya Museum: A Must this is a free museum that is located in Carlos' Slim city, aka Plaza Carso. He built this museum to honor his wife, Soumaya who loved art. She dead. At the very least come see the outside, the building itself is a work of modern art. The collection, made up of 66,000 pieces, features works by legendary artists like Diego Rivera and Rufino Tamayo. Beyond Mexican artists, the collection is dominated by many European icons like Matisse and Degas. One of the highlights is Rodin's "The Thinker," on display in the lobby.
Museo Jumex: A Must right next door to Soumaya, also free and one of my favorites. This one does not take long to check out and they have an Eno cafe location in the bottom floor (as in Eno of famous chef Enrique Olvera, owner of Pujol, one of the world's best restaurants)
Here are other recommendations:
https://www.cntraveler.com/gallery/what-to-do-in-polanco-mexico-city-our-guide
https://www.groovymashedpotatoes.com/things-to-do-in-polanco-mexico-city/
https://slightnorth.com/things-to-do-in-polanco/
There's tons of restaurants here, two that stand out other than the Michelin starred ones are:
El Turix A Must: hole in the wall with some of the best cochinita pibil and panuchos. There's no space to sit, you eat standing outside on the street. Worth trying.
Colmillo: best way to describe this is a Mexican Steak House but not central Mexico, Northern state of Monterrey, Mexico. Ask Anahí why she loves the food here but hates the place.
Both Roma and Condesa are home to some of the nicest parks, restaurants, bars, trendy shops, Art Deco houses, lots and lots of pampered dogs, and recently a world of gentrifying Americans. Despite the gentrification, these two neighborhoods are worth a visit. Both are very safe neighborhoods with well-lit streets and a lively atmosphere.
La Condesa is the name for the area that includes three different colonias or neighborhoods. The name Condesa comes from this land being owned by María Magdalena Dávalos de Bracamontes y Orozco, the Countess of Miravalle. At some point along the way an hippodrome (race track) was established as part of the Jockey Club of Mexico. This is how the name of the colonias came about, however, you will not notice the transition between one of the other so let's just call this entire area "La Condesa" (we used to call it la Condechi when I lived there).
Colonia Condesa
Colonia Hipódromo
Colonia Hipódromo-Condesa
Colonia Condesa, a vibrant and fashionable neighborhood in Mexico City, is known for its tree-lined streets, Art Deco architecture, trendy cafes, restaurants, and boutiques, offering a relaxed and chic atmosphere, especially popular with young professionals, artists, and expats.
Vibe: Condesa is a relaxed and safe neighborhood, often described as having a bohemian or European feel, with a focus on cafes, restaurants, and boutiques.
Architecture: The neighborhood is characterized by its Art Deco architecture, with many buildings dating back to the 1930s and 1950s.
Green Spaces: Condesa boasts beautiful parks like Parque México and Parque España, offering tranquil spaces for strolling and people-watching.
Food and Drink: Expect a wide variety of restaurants, cafes, and bars, catering to diverse tastes, from cozy wine bars to rooftop terraces and live music venues.
Shopping: You'll find a mix of local boutiques and art galleries, offering unique finds and a chance to explore the local creative scene.
Location: Condesa is located on the western side of Avenida Insurgentes, between Viaducto Miguel Alemán in the south and Avenida Chapultepec in the north, making it a central and accessible location.
Popular with: Condesa is a popular area for both locals and tourists, particularly young professionals, artists, and expats looking for a vibrant and stylish place to live or visit.
As with La Condes, Colonia Roma is comprised of two colonias divided by Coahuila street:
Roma Norte
Roma Sur
Colonia Roma, also known as La Roma, is a vibrant and trendy neighborhood in Mexico City's Cuauhtémoc borough, known for its beautiful architecture, diverse culinary scene, and lively nightlife, often called the "Williamsburg of Mexico City".
Originally an upper-class neighborhood: Built in the early 20th century during the Porfiriato period, it was designed as an exclusive, "European" area with tree-lined avenues, Art Nouveau mansions, fountains, and squares.
Shift to middle-class: After the Mexican Revolution, the aristocracy left, and the neighborhood became home to middle-class families.
Gentrification in recent years: Since the 2000s, the area has seen increasing gentrification, attracting a younger, trendy crowd.
Architectural styles: You'll find a mix of Art Nouveau, Neo-Classical, and colonial-style buildings.
Notable landmarks: Look for replicas of the Fuente de Cibeles in Madrid and Michelangelo's David statue.
Culture and Lifestyle: Trendy and Hipster: Roma is known for its bohemian art galleries, quirky cafes, and stylish boutiques.
Culinary Scene: It's a major center for Mexico City's culinary scene, with numerous restaurants, bars, and clubs.
Nightlife: Roma is a popular area for nightlife, with many bars and clubs.
Walkability: The neighborhood is very walkable, with wide sidewalks and plenty of green spaces.
"Magical Neighborhood": In 2011, Roma was designated a "Barrio Mágico" ("magical neighborhood") by the city.
A staple of CDMX. Lucha libre, or Mexican wrestling, is a significant part of Mexican culture, especially in Mexico City, offering a blend of athleticism, drama, and spectacle, and as of 2018 it was declared an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Mexico City, highlighting its importance to the nation's cultural identity.
Lucha Libre is a source of national pride and entertainment, second only to soccer in popularity. It's a full-blown spectacle, combining athleticism, drama, and showmanship, attracting large crowds and fans.
Lucha Libre often involves wrestlers from wrestling "families," with traditions passed down through generations. Masks are a key part of Lucha Libre, with wrestlers creating characters and identities through their mask designs, which can evoke animals, gods, or other archetypes.
There are two places to see Lucha Libre but we recommend La Arena Mexico as it is closer to Colonia Roma, if you decide to go to La Arena Coliseo just make sure you take an Uber there and then back, don't wander around the neighborhood by Coliseo.
https://insidetheupgrade.com/post/lucha-libre-mexico-city-your-ultimate-guide-to-know-before-you-go-2024-update
https://www.lonelyplanet.com/articles/guide-to-lucha-libre-mexico-city
I will link to videos of things to do here but mostly this is a place to go eat, drink, party, and explore the smaller shops like record stores, book stores, clothing stores, bazaars, cafes, etc.
Whether you do this with the family or on your own, this is a cool place to visit and enjoy CDMX culture on colorful boats. There is a huge difference going with a larger group including festive locals (super fun) vs going on your own (as fun as you make it).
There is an option to do a more elevated visit with farm-to-table breakfast or should I say chinampa-to-table prepared by chefs and farmers who cater to restaurants like the double Michelin starred restaurant Pujol, for this option you can check Arca Tierra.
A Must Plan to spend at least half a day if not more in Coyoacan. Coyoacan was named the first seat of government of "La Nueva España" by Hernán Cortéz.
Everything is within walking distance and Sundays is the most popular day to go although any day is good. You can visit the iconic Museo Frida Kahlo (La Casa Azul), explore the vibrant Coyoacan Market, wander through the charming streets, and discover local art, with other highlights including the nearby Museo Diego Rivera Anahuacalli and the historic Church of San Juan Bautista. Here is sample day at Coyoacan.
Museo Frida Kahlo: A Must buy your tickets weeks before you leave to CDMX. This is Frida Kahlo's home and now a museum. You won't regret it.
Get Coffee at El Jarocho: somewhat of a tradition when visiting Coyoacan. Taste it, let me know what you think.
Mercado de Coyoacan: A Must A typical CDMX market but with the additional section of Mexican artesanias.
Zocalo de Coyoacan aka Plaza Hidalgo: A Must this is the main square of Coyoacan. Next to it will be Parque Centenario and Parroquia de San Juan Bautista.
Parroquia de San Juan Bautista: A Must located at Plaza Hidalgo.
Fuente de los Coyotes: A Must In the center of the lovely Parque Centenario stands a bronze statue fountain portraying a pair of beautiful coyotes surrounded by jets of water. Created in 1967, this public artwork makes reference to the etymology of the borough's name, which translates as "place of the abundant coyotes" in the language of the Aztecs.
Plaza de la Conchita and La Conchita Church: (Optional) The first European church in Mexico.
Callejón del Aguacate (Optional) A narrow and cobble stoned alleyway, its width is just shy of 14 feet. It is said that the ghost of a soldier and a child can be seen here. The soldier struck and killed the child because of the overt attention to the soldier's uniform and regalia. In his combined derangement and penitence, the soldier is said to have hung the corpse from the Avocado tree for which this particular alley got its name. Locals report having heard cries in the night, and especially among the creaking branches of which many seem to crowd in upon the alley. Some others promise they’ve seen the passage of a tiny shadow.
Bazar Artesanal Mexicano: A Must Major artisan market and the site of Alyssa's and Juliana's multiple piercings.
Casa de Hernán Cortez: (Optional) no evidence that HC ever lived here though.
Casa Museo Leon Trotsky: (Optional) The house is preserved as it was when Trotsky lived there after being exiled from Rusia for being critical of the Stalin regime. They lived here after living at Frida's Casa Azul and having some misunderstanding with Frida and El Panzón. He was later assassinated at this house.
Must Have Foods at Coyoacan:
Helados Siberia: Ice Cream, Agua Fresca or any of the other sweets they sell. Av Miguel Hidalgo 6, San Lucas, Coyoacán, 04000 Ciudad de México, CDMX, Mexico
Elotes or Esquites, next to Helados Siberia
Mezcal (Tequila) and Food: El Corazon de Magüey
Just Mezcal (and Tequila):Mezcalero Coyoacan
Cantina La Coyoacana: Don't be fooled by the Cantina moniker, it's basically a restaurant with traditional Mexican food and Mariachis at times.
Mercado de Comida Coyoacan: a small market with lots of street food. Clean and inexpensive. Good for a quick snack.
Mi Compa Chava: NOT the Roma location but the Coyoacan location. Sinaloa style seafood, aguachiles, tacos de pescado, shrimp cocktails. This place is very much IN at the moment and caters to the gringo gentrifiers, however, I have to admint it is pretty good. Sometimes hard to get in.
Our recommendation is that if you will only be one Saturday in CDMX (the day of the party), that you wake up early and go to El Bazaar Sábado, which as the name implies only happens on Saturdays.
We recommend going to San Angel Inn restaurant for breakfast, this is an old Hacienda turned restaurant. Once there walk around the Hacienda, it's beautiful. You can also leave this for dinner btw but not the day of the party of course.
Museo Casa Estudio Diego y Frida: A Must Across the street from San Angel Inn you will find the Museo Casa Estudio Diego y Frida. This was El Panzón's house (Diego Rivera), he kept 2 buildings interconnected, his living headquarters and the other his studio and passion pit. Not as popular as Frida's house so you may be able to get tickets the same day.
El Bazaar Sábado: A Must From San Angel Inn you can walk to El Bazzar Sabado which is just over half a mile, or take an uber. Note that on Saturdays there will be several open air art markets in the nearby parks, go to all of them but those are not El Bazaar Sabado as this is indoors so make sure you ask around to ensure you don't miss the actual Bazaar.
If you do go the day of the Alyssa's party you may want to head back to the hotel after this to have time to relax a bit and get ready. However, if you want to come back another day here are a couple of recommendations of what else to do in San Angel https://trucosviajeros.com/en-us/what-to-do-and-see-in-san-angel-mexico-city/
https://mymexicotrip.com/san-angel-neighborhood-guide-mexico-city/
The Central University Campus of the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2007 and it's a prominent example of 20th century modernism. One way to do this is using the double-decker bus service Capital Bus riding the Centro-Sur circuit route.
Biblioteca Central: Its façade of 4,000 square meters is impressive, and owed to painter and architect Juan O’Gorman, whose intent with the design was to tell the story of the Meso Americans, colonists and contemporary Mexicans.
Estadio Olimpico Universitario: the only Olympic stadium within an UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site. The site of the 1986 World Cup and the 1968 Olympics where Tommie Smith and John Carlos, both San Jose State University alumni, raised their black-gloved fists during the medal ceremony for the 200-meter race, a bold act of defiance against racial injustice and inequality, known as the "Black Power salute".
Muac Contemporary Art Museum: One of the great things is that MUAC is set within the volcanic landscape of the Pedregal de San Ángel.
Small archeological site and museum. It is the oldest excavated ancient city in the Valley of Mexico that is open to the public. This will only take about an hour to see if you are in the area. I would not plan going to the south side of CDMX just for this.
The hose and studio of renowned architect Luis Barragan. Notice any similarities with Hotel Camino Real Polanco? Tickets are required and can be purchased HERE.
Site of Maradona's "La Mano de Dios" and where the 2026 World Cup will begin. It has been renamed, however, everyone will continue calling it "El Azteca." They usually do tours, however, they may not available due to El Mundial.
I lived, grew up, went to school in the northern part of CDMX and I can safely say, the zona centro and south side have a lot more to see and do for tourists. Let me put it this way, if this is your first visit you will probably want to visit those other areas first before hitting the north side. The stand-out, for some, in this side of town is the Basilica de Guadalupe where you can see the image of the Virgen de Guadalupe stamped on Juan Diego's cloak.
There are 3 things to see here. The new basilica de Guadalupe, which is the second most visited religious place in the world and receives about 30 million devout and 10 million non-religious visitors each year. The annual feast day on December 12 is one of the most celebrated in the City. 10,000 people can fit inside the main basilica building. These are usually surrounded by many times that number outside.
Within the new Basilica you can find the cloak or tilmàtli made of Ayate fiber with the image of La Virgen de Guadalupe associated with the four apparitions of the virgin to Juan Diego reported in December of 1531.
The Antigua Basilica de Guadalupe is next to new one and is where the image was kept initially until the new Basilica was built.
One option to see this is by taking the Turibus Circuito Basilica listed in one of the sections above.
The Mexican pyramids about an hour away from CDMX. Bigger site and pyramids and the Mayan ones in the south of Mexico.
A Must Grutas Tolantongo is home to hot springs and a cave and tunnel complex, surrounded by lush, tropical vegetation. Similar to Pamukkale in Turkey.
Taxco is primarily known for silver jewelry, a tradition that dates back to its rich silver mining past. Today its reputation for high-quality silver craftsmanship remains. In addition to silver, Taxco is famous for its iconic Santa Prisca Church, white VW Beetle taxis that navigate its steep streets, and its proximity to natural wonders in Mexico, such as the Cacahuamilpa Caves.
As the birthplace of Quetzalcóatl, the omnipotent serpent god of the Aztecs over 1200 years ago (according to Mesoamerican legend), Tepoztlán is a major Náhuatl center and a mecca for New Agers who believe the area has a creative energy.
One of the most underrated cities in Mexico. The birthplace of tacos al pastor via the tacos arabes, a must try at one of the few restaurants that brought this style of food from the Arab world. This is also the site of the Puebla battle on May 5th so celebrated by gringos, the truth is Mexico won that battle vs the French but then lost the war allowing the French to establish "El Segundo Imperio Mexicano" which imposed a Monarch for about 4 years.
The following are recommendations of places we've either been to or plan to go at some point but that have been recommended
https://guide.michelin.com/us/en/ciudad-de-mexico/restaurants
Both, highly recommended. Make reservations early. Expensive but still cheaper than the US (Ask Anahi as she paid and still will not tell me how much it was).
Pujol
Quintonil
Of the 5 we can recommend Rosetta and EM.
EM: highly recommended.
Rosetta: highly recommended, note that there's a restaurant and a few steps away they have the cafe/panaderia. Both are highly recommended.
Esquina Común: have not been there.
Taquería El Califa de León: only if you are around the area and only if the line/wait is not too long. Why? There's a million taco places that are better throughout the city.
SUD 777: avoid. Expensive, very little food, seemed like a vegetarian menu even though it was not. Far. AVOID!!!
Of these we highly recommended:
Expendio de Maíz Sin Nombre: Get there when they open, it is such an experience. Also listed in the list of Worlds 50 Best Restaurants.
Taqueria los Cocuyos: taqueria if you are in Zona Centro, stop and have at least a couple of tacos al pastor.
El Vilsito: another amazing taqueria. Featured in Netflix's Taco Chronicles.
Molino El Pujol: If you can't make it to Pujol, try this for a snack.
Fugaz: this one we have never been to but have heard lots of it.
Nico's: A Must our personal favorite. Awesome service, food and reasonable prices. Non-pretentious and close to El Camino Real Polanco. We recommend the Carta en Blanco prix fixe menu.
Tacos Hola El Güero: bet you haven't tried these before. These are tacos de güisado in Condesa, a good option for breakfast or lunch. They close early.
Contramar: Elevated seafood. The baby of Chef Gabriela Camara who also owns Cala and Tacos Cala in San Francisco. There is a documentary about this place in Netflix.
Taqueria Los Parados: taqueria from the mid-60s to today, as the name implies there's no seats but you can fit more tacos this way.
Maximo Bistrot: up there with Pujol. Also try its sister spot, Lalo http://eat-lalo.com/menu/ which is less "popoff" and great for breakfast or lunch.
Our recommendation is you stick with what they're famous for, what put them in this list. Explore a little and try their creations. None of these are a "hot shot shot" kind of place.
#1 Bar in the World according to this list - Handshake Speakeasy: Make reservations before heading to CDMX. We have not been here because we always forget to make reservations.
#17 Cafe de Nadie Listening bar (2024), great music and better cocktails.
#20 Tlecan: A Must and our favorite. Don't expect anything but Mexican spirits at this place. Tequila, Mezcal, Bacanora, Raicilla, Charanda, Sotol and Cerveza. Walk-ins OK. Not pretentious at all.
#32 Licoreria Limantour: upscale bar like what you would find in NYC or SF, filled with gringos. Was number 1 in that list several times. Good music and good selection of their own creations. If you go to cocktail bars in NYC and SF, this is the place most bartenders will know from CDMX or have done residencies, take-overs, pop-ups with.
#22 Hanky Panky Speakeasy (2023): Make reservations before heading to CDMX.
#38 Baltra (2022): Smaller bar, nice vibes, cocktails with lots of Mexican ingredients. Walk-ins Ok.
Cantinas in CDMX are not for drinking, well they are but the ones in this list are for having a snack or a full dinner with traditional Mexican, Spaniard foods. Kids welcome.
La Opera: where Pancho Villa left his mark by running in on his horse and shooting at the ceiling, still on full display.
El Mirador
Restaurante Bar Montejo